Michelyn Camen, Editor-in-Chief and Ermano Picco, Editor
For as long as ÇaFleureBon has been giving end of year Best Fragrance awards (2010), (2011), (2012), (2013), (2014), (2015), (2016) (2017), (2018), (2019) (2020), (2021) and (2022) there is always the question, “was this a good year for perfume”? We assure you despite living in a challenging and often divisive year, the Fragrances of 2023 were some of the best in quite some time as perfume lovers put aside politics to discover olfactive innovation and beauty. –Ermano Picco, Editor and Michelyn Camen, Editor-in-Chief
Best Fragrances of 2023 Best Trends
Perfume through the Metaverse: More and more the Metaverse is impacting our every day lives, connecting us, bringing excitement and more awareness. Brands rarely exploited the concept which allows people from around the world to explore fragrance details from A (for advertising) to Z (for zeitgeist), passing by the “I” for ingredients, or the “S” for sustainability, Enter AI and it becomes a powerful medium for immersive engaging storytelling as well as a continuous source of inspiration for what both customers and creators have only dared to dream about in their imagination. If last year Rook Perfumes, Dr. Nadeem Crowe’s The Scent of the Metaverse: Verse 1 limited edition was the “first NFT” fragrance ever created, this year the Agarthi Scent Core debut collection let its audience nosedive into the center of the Earth smelling a fabled Realm through impactful Metaverse generated video content. Inspired by this world, Mane Perfumers Cécile Matton, Alex Lee, Mathieu Nardin and Serge Majoullier created four bewitching scents leveraging leading edge extractions and sustainable ingredients to render a unique “Metaversive” olfactory signature –Ermano Picco @agarthi_scentcore
Inclusivity and Diversity: The beauty of perfume is that it is for everyone but has not always sent that message. If the golden age of French Perfumery set a standard for masterful presentations, nowadays beauty has a higher meaning. Amplifying the sensorial experience in every way becomes more and more important in this sense to become as inclusive as possible, like the super tactile repackaging of Anthologie by Lucien Ferrero developed in collaboration with the Italian Union of the Blind that also features braille writings on the box.- Ermano Picco. @anthologieparfums
Remastering classic ingredients: vanilla, violet, tea and oud have been in the perfumer’s palette for decades. The best fragrances of 2023 used familiar ingredients in new and inventive ways and pairings. – Michelyn Camen
Esxence 2023 Iridescent image by Karl©
Global fragrance exhibitions: We discovered some of the best fragrances of 2023… at fragrance fairs, now finally back in full swing. From Esxence Milan, Pitti Fragranze in Florence, TFWA Conference in Cannes, Beauty Instanbul, Barcelona Beautyworld Middle East, Scent Fair in Los Angeles and ScentXplore in New York City- Michelyn Camen
Refillable Bottles: Sustainability is more than ingredients. Brands like The Different Co., Olfactive Studio and designer brands are becoming more eco-conscious and offer refillable bottles.
Worst Trends: Launching new fragrances so late in the year, 2023, more than anytime I can remember. During the Pandemic many houses and perfumers had to close shop. There was a lack of materials, and bottles, we understand but the December deluge is too much. –Michelyn Camen
Best Fragrance of The Year 2023: Roberto Greco Rauque by Christopher Sheldrake delivers a full sensorial experience, immersive, beguiling, and even challenging. The creative duo reminds us that when an artist doesn’t take risks, there is only mediocrity. Rauque is a fragrance we cannot praise enough: heady narcissus and acacia blossoms melt into Russian leather and mystic myrrh, but it is also is an act of hope and courage in times when being true to yourself and fearlessly expressing creativity is often inversely related to the number of new launches. – Michelyn Camen and Ermano Picco. @roberto___greco @christopher.sheldrake
I have a tie: Aurelien Guichard’s Premiere Matière Vanilla Powder, which is vanilla reimagined, combines artistry and innovation. It is composed with 40 percent powdered resins (most resins are liquid) and his signature overdose of a raw material, here, the richest natural Madagascar Vanilla Absolute is balanced by dry palo santo oil.-Michelyn Camen @matierepremiereparfums @aurelienguichard
Celine Verleure and Christopher Chong courtesy of the Creative Directors
Best Fragrances of 2023 Best Creative Director: Celine Verleure of Olfactive Studio and Christopher Chong of Thameen Fragrances
While tea notes seem to pop up over the past few years, smoky notes are an upcoming trend, especially coupled with edible accords that add grown-up gourmand facets. Cleverly avoiding the easy caramelized background, and hiring independent perfumer Marc-Antoine Corticchiato, with Sépia Collection Smoky Soul, the first in a trilogy, “The Soul Of Teas”, Céline Verleure proved once more not only to be on trend, but to put the Art of Perfumery first. She has engaged the community ever since she started her project with Le Blog du parfum qui n’existe pas (encore), that later gave birth to Olfactive Studio. –Ermano Picco and Michelyn Camen
Ermano, I also think Christopher Chong of Thameen Fragrances is deserving of Best Creative Director of 2023. After resigning as Creative Director from Amouage in May of 2019, Christopher returned to the industry with great “Fanfare,” infusing new energy through storytelling and adding diversity and inclusiveness with style, while keeping the DNA of the British brand. Bravi Christopher-Michelyn
Best Fragrances of 2023: Best Fragrance you never heard of: Vandou and Cooquet by Alexx and Anton and Jadon (Roots) by Fleur de Livvy
The best fragrance I never heard of was an unexpected encounter in Pitti Fragranze; the Berlin based creative duo coming from fashion Alexx and Anton that entered the perfume game with a limited-edition capsule collection of two fragrances, Vaudou and Coquet (Will Inrig). The inspiration is the golden boy and his path to adult consciousness. A gorgeous amber, the first blends sweet and mineral resins to smoky and leathery notes. Intensely floral with a bouquet of rose, ylang-ylang and carnation, the latter also bears an addictive unctuousness with solar and chypre hints. The ultimate chic though is the Japanese porcelain flacon with the classic parfum stopper you can use to let a few drops on your pulse points. – Ermano Picco @alexxandanton @coquetvaudou
I read about this brand in the Pitti Best of Show reports. I am eager to try their offerings. La Fleur de Livvy Jadon (which translates to roots in Hindi) was released at the A+O Scent Fair in Los Angeles May of 2023, by Olivia Larson the Indian born American natural perfumer and owner. Jadon by Fleur by Livvy received the International Perfume Foundation Brand of The Year 2023 (New Luxury Awards) at the #BPC Barcelona Perfumery Congress. Even with this exposure, Jadon is under the radar. Hopefully not any more. In an industry where authenticity and diversity are increasingly important, it is as if Olivia infused a piece of herself and her ancestry with each ingredient she chose. It is warm, cozy and spicy and truly pays homage to Olivia’s “roots” in Kolkata (Calcutta). Jadon opens with a beautiful lemon top note, then a cascade of spices, especially cardamom linger, the tonka bean is nut-like, not hay-like and the creamy, almost sweet aroma of Indian sandalwood is enhanced by a touch of frankincense. –Michelyn Camen @lafleurbylivvy
Frédéric Malle courtesy of the brand
Best Fragrances Of 2023 Best Niche House: Editions de Parfums Frédéric Malle
A little more than 20 years ago, I discovered niche perfumery. Everything was different from nowadays, starting from the number of point of sales and you had to be adventurous to spot a niche perfumery shop in Italy. One of the first in Europe was in Milan, a shop called Profumo that doesn’t exist anymore: they were one of the few retailers of Editions de Parfums Frédéric Malle, the man who “published” perfumers like novelists. My first fragrance from the brand was L’Eau d’Hiver. It’s been a fabulous journey from then, with highs and lows, but 2023 was undoubtedly a good one for Jean-Claude Ellena who did it again with his fourth for the House, the stunning carnation laden iris of Heaven Can Wait. –Ermano Picco @fredericmalle
Best Fragrances Of 2023 Independent House: Olfactive Studio
Olfactive Studio widens its Sépia Collection, now numbering seven with a perfume dedicated to tea (with two more to follow). Smoky Soul by Marc-Antoine Corticchiato focuses on Lapsang Suchong tea and the smoked bitterness of fermented leaves sublimating velvety osmanthus like never before, along with patchouli and savory seaweed absolute boosting a tremendously chic umami and chypre effect. This sets high standards for the upcoming two releases and makes not only our best creative director, but also our best Independent house for 2023.- Ermano Picco and Michelyn Camen
Best Fragrances of 2023 Artisan Perfume: Meo Fusciuni Parfums Viole Nere
There are notes so lost in a glorious past to feel almost new, when seen through the magnifying lens of a creative perfumer and implemented with the top raw materials available today, they become modern. That is the case of carnation, but also for violet. Viole Nere is a new take on a nostalgic ingredient and its powdery veil leads to deeper meditations. Like a delicate misty garden suited for solitary morning walks, Meo Fusciuni succeeded in breathing new life to violet flowers, without seeming old-fashioned. – Ermano Picco and Michelyn Camen
Linked In photo
Best Fragrances Of 2023 Best Perfumer: Christopher Sheldrake
Christopher Sheldrake, who is also the perfumer who created Roberto Greco’s Rauque our best perfume of 2023. -Ermano Picco and Michelyn Camen @christopher.sheldrake
photo courtesy of Danu
Best Fragrances of 2023 Natural Perfume: Abel Fragrances Black Anise
Dark, sultry, and slipping on like a second skin, Black Anise changes something people don’t tend to associate with natural perfumes…tenacity. That’s why we invite everybody to smell Abel Black Anise, because it’s totally addictive. In-house perfumer Isaac Sinclair from Symrise teamed up with creative director Frances Shoemack to render a mystery tobacco accord where the vanilla-like facets of bittersweet cocoa and lip-smacking blackcurrant render an intoxicating winey impression set against the dryness of star anise. Yummy and deep, yet surprising –Ermano Picco and Michelyn Camen
Best Fragrances of 2023 Best Discovery: Scent Hunters
Due to the Ukranian-Russian conflict many people from East Europe couldn’t come to Italy for perfume shows as they used to do. Fortunately, a few could visit Milan at least and hand me one of the best discoveries of 2023. Scent Hunters is a new brand born from the knowledge and passion of eminent Russian Perfume collectors, experts, and fragrance enthusiasts Ekaterina Khmelevsky and Lyubov Berlyanskaya. They teamed up with perfumers Soizic Beaucourt, Elise Benat, Olaf Larsen, and Angeline Poubeau Leporini to release four perfumes condensing heritage and contemporary vibes. What I loved most is Pervertea (Soizic Beaucourt) which juxtaposes the sparkle of spiced citrusy tea and smoked oud and vetiver for a unique masculine fragrance. – Ermano Picco @scenthunters
Best Fragrances of 2023 Best Natural Perfumer 2023: Isaac Sinclair and Mandy Aftel
Isaac Sinclair for Abel Black Anise-Ermano Picco
Isaac is brilliant but for me because he works in mixed media as well as naturals, my Best Natural Perfumer is Mandy Aftel.-Michelyn Camen
Kevin Mathys and Coralie Spicher
Best Fragrances of 2023 Rising Star: Coralie Spicher of Firmenich and Kevin Mathys of CPL Aromas
With her first professional experience at Firmenich in Geneva in chromatography, Coralie Spicher recently graduated at the Firmenich Fine Fragrance perfumery school. While in Florence at Pitti Fragranze, I had the pleasure to meet this passionate young perfumer and discover her creation Nebulosa for the installation Symbiotic Experience (featuring also creations by Alberto Morillas, Serge Majoullier and Jerôme Di Marino). Set against the digital artwork from Gisella Alfieri Sabattini, the impressive fragrance by Coralie Spicher kept my nose literally glued to the sticky, glossy raspberry wrapped in plastic bubbles she rendered so vividly. She worked only on a projects by now, but keep your nose on her work in the next years, you won’t be disappointed.-Ermano Picco @coraliespicher
l first heard about young perfumer Kevin Mathys of CPL Aromas when Karl recently reviewed Scentologia Trace, but learned that he is the nose for Kajal IV when Nicoleta sung its praises (stay tuned). He also signed Fragrance du Bois – Voyage a Paris, Parfum de Moosie – Amber Obsession (which won a Silver Laurel Award for the Best Art Award at the Golden Osmanthus Award in China), and Electimuss Patchouli of the Underworld. Kevin was born in the northern countryside of France, lives in Dubai and has been focusing mostly on the Middle Eastern market since he started perfumery, but his fragrances are already creating a buzz everywhere. –Michelyn Camen @kevin.mathys.perfumer @cpl_aromas
Hernando Courtright and Ermano “Picco-pedia”
MVPP (Most Valuable Perfume Person): ÇaFleureBon’s Ermano Picco and Hernando Courtright
MVPP to two of our own… Hernando Patrick Courtright has been the New York City brand ambassador since we began in 2010. He has transversed the five boroughs by foot, subway and bus, spending hours finding the best scents in this city. Hernando attends nearly every industry event, handing out cards and chatting up complete strangers about what we do. Recently he was in Los Angeles and searched out new and exciting shops. Thank you, H, for your hard work, team spirit, and fantastic writing. I don’t tell you often enough how much you mean to me and to ÇaFleureBon.
Editor Ermano Picco is now teaching Ancient Perfume History to the students of the Evaluator & Marketing Strategist Program Study at at the Italian Perfumery Institute in Milan as of December 18th with the first lesson about Perfumery in the Roman Empire to a class of roughly 30 young people. He told me,” I am really excited to see how engaged, curious and passionate they are about ancient raw materials and praised fragrances like the Regale Unguentum. These youngsters give me hope for a great future for Perfumery.” Congratulations Professor Picco- Michelyn Camen
Best Fragrances of 2023 Best Bottle
Jean-Paul Gaultier Divine Eau de Parfum bottle is the amazing Star Wars rendition of the iconic Gaultier corset, perfectly fit for a brand-new feminine counterpart of C3-PO. May the scent be with you! – Ermano Picco
Ermano, the bottle looks to me EXACTLY like Madonna’s corset that indeed was designed by Gaultier in 1990-Michelyn Camen
Special mention to Cartier that updated its iconic La Panthère bottle making it more sustainable by reducing the bottle’s waste and plastic use; this way the flacon becomes a 94% recyclable material. Moreover, the fragrance uses 100% plant-based alcohol now. Because real luxury unquestionably means sustainable nowadays
Fragrances of 2023 Worst Bottle
Nasomatto Sadonaso limited edition – Unless you’re adding new meaning on top of what artists like Louise Bourgeois already did, in 2023 a penis shaped cap is closer to cut-rate marketing or boring pornography than to experiential design. – Ermano Picco
Best Fragrances of 2023 Best Limited Edition: Parfum d’Empire Eau de Gloire Cologne
Parfum d’Empire Eau de Gloire Cologne was a stunning limited-edition release by perfumer Marc-Antoine Corticchiato to celebrate the 20th anniversary of his brand. The cologne brought freshness, energy and sunshine with laurel and sunny citrus fruits and it is once more a tribute to his beloved birthplace, Corsica. –Ermano Picco and Michelyn Camen
Best Fragrances of 2023 Best Experimental Scent: We Are Future Society
Special mention to a project we haven’t smelt yet, but that intrigued us as we recently read about its experimental approach. We Are Future Society is a perfume brand which wanted to resurrect extinct flowers and use them to create fragrances built around them. Of course there’s a lot of science behind that, and after sequencing the DNA of extinct flower samples from Harvard Herbarium, they collaborated with Givaudan perfumers Daniela Andrier, Jerôme Epinette, and Olivia Jan to bring these lost blooms back to life. We look forward to putting our noses on them soon-Ermano Picco and Michelyn Camen @futuresociety.
Popeline Blanche image courtesy of Zara
Best Fragrances of 2023: Best Bang For The Buck
Zara A Perfume by Olivia Giacobetti. If you ever looked for a top-notch laundry-chic perfume for the price of a laundry detergent, in 2023 check out one of the four Giacobetti creations for Zara. They are reminiscent of Junx, her discontinued brand that many aficionados wish was still available. The chicest and cleanest of them all is Popeline Blanche, a flawless musky cologne. –Ermano Picco and Michelyn Camen
Best Fragrances of 2023: Best (fragrance) Book: The Museum of Scents – Exploring the Curious & Wondrous World Of Fragrances
Mandy Aftel’s The Museum of Scent, which was written and illustrated by Mandy herself is not only educational, informative and beautifully presented, it is a magical journey through the earliest history of perfume, a deep dive into scent families, ingredients and written in the first person as if Mandy Aftel was speaking to you. Mandy, on a personal note, my bookmark that was attached to the inside back cover is “Clary Sage,” known for its stress reducing and calming aroma. I have scratched and sniffed it often, yet I can still smell its warm, sweet herbaceous scent.-Michelyn Camen
It’s a tie between “Germaine Cellier – L’audace d’une parfumeuse” Comics book by Béatrice Égémat (illustrated by Sandrine Revel) and Mandy Aftel’s “The Museum of Scents – Exploring the Curious & Wondrous world of fragrances”. Both highly entertaining and educational. –Ermano Picco
Roberto Greco (Far Left) and Christopher Sheldrake (R)
Best Fragrances of 2023 Best Collaboration: Christopher Sheldrake and Roberto Greco
Star perfumer Christopher Sheldrake has rarely teamed up for artistic projects, so chapeau to our friend Roberto Greco for creating a breathtaking photographic series together with Rauque, a mesmerizing scent that took almost two years in the making –Ermano Picco and Michelyn Camen
Best Fragrances of 2023 Hardest Working Person in Perfume: Nick Steward of Gallivant
Nick has been gallivanting all over the world finding inspiration for his collection of travel inspired fragrances since 2017. In 2023, he has been to 17 countries, exploring or meeting with fragrance lovers. Sound glamourous? Nick Steward makes every single sample by hand with his parents and then packs and posts all the orders. Nick has added Home Fragrances this fall/autumn – 3 candles and diffusers – all made in the countryside just outside London (inspired by his perfumes, Istanbul, London and Los Angeles). He added roll-on perfumed oils as well, which is great for traveling. If you visit London, be sure to make an appointment to visit his studio –Michelyn Camen
Best Fragrances of 2023 Best Home Fragrance: QHUE Lifestyle and Meo Fusciuni Home Fragrances
The Ombreance collection by QHUE Lifestyle, which I discovered a few months ago in Florence. Not only are they presented a fresh take on room fragrances with the mineral greenery of Intro Vert, but the line also offers a avant-garde design for reel diffusers. –Ermano Picco @QHUElifestyle
Meo Fusciuni new room fragrances were born from the need to give an olfactory memory to the environment around us, to give it a name, an intensity, an emotion, just as he does with his perfumes. There are currently three: Nottetempo smells of burnt wood and is smoky, inspired by an old Jazz club and evenings spent with friends. Penombra has a soft, serene wood aroma and if it had a color, it would be white. Calura is Meo’s childhood memory of a morning by the sea, steps away from his home in Sicily, sea notes blending with a bergamot tea. –Michelyn Camen @meofusciuni_parfums
via CHANEL
Best Fragrances of 2023 Best Ad: CHANEL COCO MADEMOISELLE
Chanel Coco Mademoiselle featuring Canadian actress Whitney Peak. This is the first time the most iconic French fashion house releases a fragrance advertisement showing a young, empowered black woman. And we love it!!! That’s why this makes our best ad. -Ermano Picco and Michelyn Camen
courtesy of M. Kurkdjian
Best Fragrances of 2022 Best Designer Fragrance: J’Adore L’Or by Francis Kurkdjian
Rewriting the codes of an iconic success like J’Adore was not an easy task. Doing it as the first mass release since the appointment as in-house perfumer was even harder, but Francis Kurkdjian not only reconnected with the original creator, perfumer Calice Becker to better get into the original spirit of the perfume, he also succeeded in infusing the new J’Adore l’Or with his personal touch. Greener than the previous flankers, J’Adore L’Or brings back the juicy crispness of the original taming the florals, which now seamlessly blend with a mass appealing ambery base without falling in the generic “cake.” That is why our Best Designer fragrance is Christian Dior J’Adore L’Or. –Ermano Picco and Michelyn Camen
Best Fragrances of 2023: Best Celebrity fragrance: Troye Sivan TLY 7555 and Beyoncé’ Cé Noir
From an unashamed perfumista like Australian actor and singer Troye Sivan we could expect nothing but good fragrances. It’s the case of his debut perfume line Tsu Lange Yor (which in Yiddish means For Many Years, a tribute to his grandma’s roots), and in particular TLY 5755 developed in collaboration Craig Andrade of the Raconteur. Peppery, bracingly aromatic with shiso leaves, and cocooning like a musky blanket of Australian sandalwood, the fragrance features various raw materials sourced in Australia. Last but not least,the flacon is amazing and revives the 1990s edgy aesthetic à la Helmut Lang. –Ermano Picco.
via Instagram
The Beyhive has been buzzing about Cé Noir, Beyoncé’s first new perfume in nearly a decade. As the “undisclosed” perfumer Mathilde Bijaoui, (who confirmed that she is the nose), quipped on Instagram “Queens smell like honey” and, may I add, roses dipped in a gold amber “Halo” glow.- Michelyn Camen
Best Fragrances of 2023 Best Perfume You Want To Drink Or Eat
April Aromatics latest release Coco n’Amour smells so luscious and tridimensional that it feels like having a break with coconut macaroons and a refreshing glass of coconut water. It is actually the snack I have during my gluten detox periods, and it’s incredible that a natural perfume can render it in such a yummy, hyper-realistic way. –Ermano Picco @aprilaromatics
State Of Mind Fanfarone Italiano: The newest perfume from State of Mind debuted at Esxence 2023, and I want to drink it, not spritz it. Fanfarone Italiano smells like you dipped a chocolate covered biscotti into the richest dark ristretto coffee-Michelyn Camen @stateofmind.fr
Best Fragrances of 2023 Neo-Vintage: Aftelier Perfumes Hey Jude and Cherigan Fiesta Habana
I am totally a fan of antique roses for they have a unique smell, and of the work breeders like David Austin did creating such poetic and intensely fragrant roses as well. When I first read about Mandy Aftel creating a fragrance inspire by Jude the Obscure, one of the most renowned Austin roses, I was so excited. Aftelier Hey Jude keeps all the promises delivering a velvety, pulpy, and peachy rose tinged with subtle greenery that fades to the most gorgeous animalic honey purring in powdery leather rather than roaring. Such refined multiple layers convey all the way glorious roses from the past without explicitly quoting any; the mellowness of Lancome Trésor (1990) meets here the flawless chypresque balance of the original feminine Fendi (1985). Could we ask for more? That’s why Hey Jude is my Best Neo-Vintage fragrance for 2023. – Ermano Picco
I adored Aftelier Hey Jude, but it wasn’t a neo-vintage for me. My choice is Fiesta Habana fromthe re-founded House of Cherigan, an homage to Hemingway’s “The Sun also Rises” and Havana, Cuba. The scent of a hot tropical night, cannabis, tobacco, and rum transport me to the late 1920s. –Michelyn Camen @cheriganparis
Most Disappointing Perfume: It’s a category. I haven’t seen so many perfumes marketed as “Smells Like” since the 1980s. They are back and there is even a “brand” named Smells-A-Like. Don’t be duped-Michelyn Camen
Best Fragrances of 2023 Best Flanker: Jacques Fath L’Iris de Fath eau de parfum
Not really a flanker, but a different embodiment of a masterpiece, Jacques Fath L’Iris de Fath eau de parfum. Creative Director Rania Naim along with Perfumer Patrice Revillard worked nearly two years to bring a more accessible, yet still fabulous rendition of L’Iris de Fath. Bravo! – Ermano Picco and Michelyn Camen
Best Fragrances of 2023: Best Fragrance Name
Frédéric Malle Heaven Can Wait, a hymn to live life at best after a few tough years.- Ermano Picco.
Heaven can Wait, but meanwhile Laboratorio Olfattivo Miss_U sums up how I felt much of 2023 because due to circumstances I was unable to get together with friend-in-fragrance and members of our team.. See_U next year. –MIchelyn Camen
Julien Rasquinet courtesy of Julien
Best Buzz: Julien Rasquinet joins CPL Aromas
Senior Perfumer Julien Rasquinet leaving International Flavors & Fragrances after nearly a decade marked by incredible perfumes joined the family-owned company CPL Aromas. We are so excited to smell what’s next and wish you continued success-Michelyn Camen and Ermano Picco @julienrasquinet
Best Fragrances of 2023 Hall of Fame: Ulrich Lang of Ulrich New York and Perfumer Jean Amic (R.I.P)
The first person in niche perfumery I interviewed back in my early blogging days was a charming German born New York based art dealer and photographer who created his independent perfume brand a few years before. I was young and pretty tongue-tied with my bad English, but Ulrich Lang was so nice to me that I remember how engaging and fun our talk was. Celebrating 20 years of Ulrich Lang New York in 2023, after many successful perfumes he introduced the latest youthful and peachy Suncrest. Uli, as friends call him, is still the same laid-back man, always smiling, always traveling, always on the creative ball! –Ermano Picco @ulrichlang_newyork
R.I.P. Jean Amic (1935 – 2023) Last April the perfume industry lost one of the most eminent figures of the second half of the last century. A direct descendant of the founder of the Roure company created in 1820 later become Givaudan, Monsieur Amic set the breeding ground of creativity that gave birth to planetary hits like He is at the origin of great successes such as Rive Gauche and Opium by Yves Saint Laurent, Poison by Christian Dior, Obsession by Calvin Klein and Loulou by Cacharel. Combining a unique commercial sense with a deep knowledge of perfume design supported by a remarkable sense of smell, he also nurtured under his team a generation of talents like Calice Becker, Nathalie Feisthauer, and many others. –Ermano Picco
Best Fragrances of 2023 Hall of Fame: Ramón Monegal of Ramon Monegal Perfumes and Barb Stegemann of The 7 Virtues
How many niche fragrance houses can tout 100 years of composing fine perfumery? Spanish Perfumer Ramon Monegal is the 4th generation of the Monegal family, founders of Myrurgia (Maja being one of the most famous perfumes of all time). Ramón Monegal has crafted approximately 160 perfumes (excluding home fragrances). His initial creations, such as Don Algodón and those for Adolfo Domínguez, continue to be timeless and are still available today. He worked for various brands, (including Myrurgia) before starting his eponymous brand in in 2011. There are approximately 47 in the collection and most can be purchased online, at stockists and some are sold only in his boutique in Barcelona. Senor Monegal is inspired by the beauty of his native country, using ingredients to tell scented stories of terroir and his own experiences. Each is composed of materials that Senor Monegal uses like words, wafting from the distinctive bottle which looks like an old-fashioned inkwell. –Michelyn Camen @ramonmonegalperfume
Ramón Monegal of Ramon Monegal Perfumes and Barb Stegemann of The 7 Virtues
I was introduced to The 7 Virtues by Deputy Editor Tama Blough in 2013 (RIP), who wrote, “The words “sustainability” and “fair trade” are bandied about quite often lately, mostly in the area of food and farming. But what do they mean for perfumery? A new Canadian-based company called The 7 Virtues is working to bring those practices to the manufacture of scent.” Founded in 2010 by entrepreneur, global women’s rights activist, motivational speaker, creative director and author Barb Stegemann, The 7 Virtues was born from a promise made in a hospital room. Stegemann’s best friend, a CIMIC officer, inspired her to carry forward his mission of peace after being wounded during discussions about providing essential resources to an Afghan village. This promise fueled her bestselling book “The 7 Virtues of a Philosopher Queen (A Woman’s Guide To Living & Leading in an Illogical World)”, now in its 8th edition and the first book ever to be sold in Sephora. Barb became known to millions of Canadians when she went on to become the first woman from Atlantic Canada to land a venture-capital deal on the CBC TV show Dragons’ Den and the “Top Game Changer” in the history of the show. Her story has sparked international attention and is the subject of the critically acclaimed documentary Perfume War, which won Best Humanitarian Film at the Sedona Film Festival and Audience Choice at the Sonoma Film Festival. The 7 Virtues is sold exclusively at Sephora across 17 countries, and recently became the first fragrance brand to receive an investment from Unilever Ventures and True Beauty Ventures. Just a week ago on Instagram, Barb wrote, “It was such an emotional and beautiful day on the floor at Sephora this week, when a client who had not been able to smell any perfume since she had Covid was able to smell Santal Vannille and Cherry Ambition.”-Michelyn Camen @the7virtues @barbstegemann
For our Best Fragrances of 2023 Giveaway Part 1
Grazie Mille to Roberto Greco for a 80 ml bottle of Roberto Greco Rauque to one registered reader in Europe only. You must register here for your comment to count and live in Europe. Please state that in your comment.
Thanks to the generosity of Frances Shoemack and Abel, we have a 50ml bottle of Black Anise for one registered reader in EU, UK, US (contiguous), NZ and Australia (register here if you have not already done so), which you would like to win and where you live. Draw closes 12/27/203
Let us know what you think of our Best Fragrances 2023 Part 1. What in particular sparked your interest?
We will be back with our top ten soon, as well as over the next days, Ida, Lauryn, Nicoleta, J Wearescentient, Karl, Michael, Rachel K. Ng, Danu, Hernando, Sandi, Steven and Olya will award their favorites from 2023. There will be MANY DRAWS.
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