Esxence 2024 Metamorphosis
Esxence, the global perfume extravaganza held in Milan, Italy every year is always intense, a marathon of meetings, new releases, discoveries and the heartwarming personal connection with friends and colleagues. 2024 was along the same vein but this year was so much bigger, an incredible 360 brands took part and 12,000 visitors thronged the booths, events and talks for the four days. We shared so many smiles, so many delightful new discoveries and social events. Perfume, people and parties, what else is there to say. Except to issue a huge thank you to all the organisers and teams of people who make it happen, every year. My Esxence 2024 Metamorphosis report will be in two parts, so much to cover.
It really is an ‘Alice’ moment when the morning of the first day arrives and I head to Mico, the huge conference complex in Milan Fiera District. There it is spotted from afar, the Esxence banner and the crowds of professional visitors that impatiently wait for 10am. We are all changed as soon as we enter, this other dimension, very apt then that this year the theme was Metamorphosis. I visited numerous booths, most by appointment and met with new and known friends, its always about the people as well as perfumes.
At first glance in the festooned foyer of Esxence 2024 Metamorphosis, one can feel slightly disorientated, your reality has slipped into another plane but a few moments of familiar readjustment and we are off. I will try to give you a glimpse of those brands and perfumes that took my attention. Part 2 to follow.
Danu and Gabriella Chieffo, Scuiscui, In Extremis – Astrophil and Stella, Sweet Pulp – Astrophil and Stella, Danu and perfumer Miguel Matos, Giuseppe Imprezzabile- Meo Fusciuni.
When I saw Gabriella Chieffo on the brands list of Esxence 2024 Metamorphosis, I knew we had to see one another, it was pre-covid when Gabriella last presented here and I was excited to not only reconnect with this dynamic, powerful and talented woman but to smell her new creation, Scuiscui in Italian. We of course have the same expression in French, Chouchou and it means the same, a term of endearment. Scuiscui is an enchanted concoction that is an olfactory fairytale, a decadent weaving of fabled encounters and tender determination to write one’s own ending, a contemporary chypre worth exploring, I found it to be unique, enduring and a story worth unfolding.
One feels a rush of anticipation when one hears the name Meo Fusciuni in his own right but added to Astrophil and Stella and I am excited. Meo (Giuseppe Imprezzabile) is the perfumer for their new release, ‘In Extremis’, inspired and written around the life of Michelangelo Merisi da Caravaggio. It was an instant capture for me, no half-heartedness, this is a fierce rendering of a passionate life. Meo has impressed his own style into this complex work, alchemical brews and thrown off shards of light into sombre corners, richly intricate and a vast as his canvasses, there is movement and a herbal luminescence in this work that is intensely Italian, ancient and modern in the same master stroke.
One cannot speak of Meo Fusciuni without mentioning his newest work seen at Esxence, ‘Last Season’, my article for ÇaFleureBon can be found here. I was also impressed with the work of another perfumer whom I admire, Miguel Matos for Astrophil and Stella – Sweet Pulp. An intoxicating concoction of Mediterranean airs, taut with legend, a mesmerizing ode to the Minoan mysteries of Crete.
Welton London, New Collection Welton, Aline Perlade and Danu, Master Perfumer Christian Provenzano, Perfumer Vincent Ricord Esxence 2024 Metamorphosis
A great pleasure to meet once again with Aline and John-Paul from Welton London, this elegant and refined brand presented with a completely new colour scheme and I must say it’s beautiful. They were also presenting 3 new releases in their Extrait Collection complete with sublime gold bottles. Saffron Euphoria and Mystique Myrrhe are by perfumer Vincent Ricord and Imperial Leather by Christian Provenzano. I was fortunate enough to be able to meet both the perfumers and have to say all 3 releases spoke to me, beautifully composed and with unique formulations to highlight the namesake. Out of the three, Mystique Myrrhe and Saffron Euphoria were for me and Imperial Leather spoke to my partner. Worthy additions to this luxurious collection.
Filippo Sorcinelli Memento Collection, Plume Impression Onda D’Oro, Plume Impression Sabine Schaffer, Kajal Booth with Lamar Caviar centre stage, Scentologia Alkeme Collection Esxence 2024 Metamorphosis.
Filippo Sorcinelli is always so much in demand at Esxence, his booth always crowded, we did manage a hug. A new collection of perfume released called Memento- places and treasures that inspire faith and devotion. I need to spend more time with these, but during my testing, I recall 3 or 4 that spoke to me. From memory, Basilica di Assisi, Notre Dame and Pont Max took my nose.
Sabine and Gabriel from Plume Impression, always offer a warm welcome, since our first meeting in Cannes 2023, I was very impressed with Dualite Magnifique and Elegance Cuiree, they are on my writing agenda. The latest release previewed at Esxence 2024 Metamorphosis is Onda d’Oro, a wonderful expression of rolling Tuscan hills, warmed by the zenith of sunlight, vast fields of corn and the homage to leather and iris, the Florentine legacy.
Visiting Moe Khalef and Natalie from Kajal is always a pleasure and their booth is always highly frequented, nevertheless they are always so generous with their time and honouring appointment slots, I appreciate that integrity. They have a new release, Aican (mentioned in Michelyn’s report here), a wonderful name that when spoken is akin to a little mantra for your day. The presentation is up to their usual standard as well and includes 2 samples, Lamar and Masa, in a wooden stand complete with daily affirmation cards. Aican is a great addition to the collection, bright and effervescent with a Kajal signature.
My first experience of Scentologia was a wonderful surprise, I had heard a lot about certain perfumes in their collection and was keen to explore. Over.dose of course lived up to its reputation and was heralded all round. Immortal Potion was a must try from the Alkeme Collection and I was not disappointed, a fascination, an intense olfactory alchemy that voyages in timeless threads that stretch beyond, behind and into the future. There are two new additions to the Alkeme Collection and both of them also have me obsessed, Obsidian and Dark Opulence.
Thierry Bernard and Ellen Dahlgren, Parfumers Du Monde, Danu and Ellen Dahlgren, Terre de Soleil and Sha’raan, Anna Torrents, founder Genyum, Genyum Collection
Parfumeurs de Monde and Ellen Dahlgren Perfumer are always on my list to visit, Thierry Bernard and his esteemed group of perfumers never fail to deliver exceptional natural perfumes created with the finest of raw materials, whilst highlighting the talents of various perfumers. Thierry presented two new natural perfumes, Terre de Soleil by Stephanie Bakouche and Sha’raan by Thierry Bernard. Both exceptional in their own right.
Ellen Dalghren attended with her two perfumes The Ruler and The Jester which impressed me so much last Esxence, this year aside from being able to spend a little time with her she presented to me her upcoming releases, I cannot divulge much but suffice to say the concept is unique and fascinating and from what I was able to smell, both will be superb and aptly named.
One of the highlights for me at Esxence 2024 Metamorphosis was to finally discover the collection of Genyum from Barcelona, a brand founded from her family and its artistic connections and with great authenticity at its core. Not only a highly original collection of perfumes but also being able to meet Anna Torrents the founder, she is as unique and welcoming as her creations. I have not had time to go over the collection in depth but each perfume was fascinating and unlike anything I had encountered and I look forward to delving more deeply. Perhaps I am partial to ‘Writer’ as a first selection.
Sarah Baker and Peach’s Revenge, Danu and Ted Rohn from Raer, Raer Perfumes collection Esxence 2024 Metamorphosis.
Raer Scents (formerly Aer) and aptly renamed to reflect its integrity and uniqueness of raw materials. I always Ted Rohn at every opportunity, his perfumes are high on my list of those brands I consider to have great authenticity and powerfully expressive formulations. Ted was highlighting 2 new releases and a wonderful new formulation of Tuberose and Ylang 06, which includes in its components an exceptional Indian Tuberose, created by effleurage of just the fully open flowers, an aspect of tuberose that I instantly adored. His two new releases are 07 Orris and Cacao, which replaces 07 Orris and was an instant attraction, the cacao is simply swathed with orris, a divine coupling, the second just as enticing is 10 Holy basil, Jasmin and Pandan, simply beautiful.
The exuberant and dynamic Sarah Baker aided by my friend and former ÇaFleureBon editor Megan Paki, was a delight to visit, her use of Hekate, the triple faced guardian of the Underworld in Greek mythology caught my eye and if anyone can have as their mark this demanding and unpredictable Goddess, it is Sarah Baker. Wild and uninhibited she pushes boundaries which is something I admire in perfumers. Her latest release is an exuberant peach explosion, a plush and velveteen drama queen, ‘Peach’s Revenge’. I was fascinated by this as it unfolded on my skin over the day, so surprising for me as a person who is not usually one to dash for this fruit in my perfumes but it was a revelation, I must say, the daring Ms. Baker has done it again.
New releases Maison Tahite – Vanilla Park and Arabican Rose, Christele Jacquemin and Celebration, Spiritum Paris, Jonathan Dufour and Danu
Daniela Kaon from Laboratorio Olfattivo, Maison Tahite, and Anthologie by Lucien Ferrero and I appreciate each other very much and always make a few moments to catch up at these fairs and I was introduced to two new additions to Maison Tahite, who have wonderful, expressive collections of Vanilla, Coffee and Chocolate in all their deliciousness, one in the Vanilla Collection – Vanilla Park and one in the Coffee Collection – Arabican Rose. Both very beautifully done and I look forward to wearing them in the next few weeks. Laboratorio Olfattivo also had on display their new release Amberbomb, a powerful and voluptuous, sensual baroque tapestry, laced with gourmand appetizers and seductive innuendos.
Spiritum Paris is a must and the effervescent Jonathan Dufour, dressed impeccably and exhibiting his collection, the latest releases of this empowering brand are named after master numbers, 11, 22 and 33. For me it’s got to be 22, and 33, both harbouring herbal enticements upon richly profound foundations. I was party to a rather wonderful secret too, but a secret is a secret, shhhhh.
A warm welcome always awaits me at the booth of Christele Jacquemin and her booth of inspiration from her many travels. We spoke of her love for her region in Provence and I promised to seek her out at some summer market in the Luberon. A latest release reflecting her father’s love of Avignon and her connection to that city of incredible histories. A beautiful perfume, rich and aromatic, with an incredible Cacao note that I couldn’t resist.
Gianluca Zin and Paola from Venezia1920, Bellini – Venezia1920, Atelier Materi – Cedre Figalia, Hima Jomo and Khullu. Esxence 2024 Metamorphosis
A little jaunt outside of the Mico centre was on the cards to visit my friend Gianluca Zin and Paola from Venezia 1920, in an office overlooking the Duomo. Their latest release is inspired by the legendary Bellini cocktail from Harry’s bar in Venice, the perfume certainly encapsulates that iconic cocktail. Not just peach but all the effervescent joy and creaminess that sits on the top of your glass, summers treat.
Vittoria from Hima Jomo gets my award for the most beautiful booth design, it was an aesthetic oasis amongst all the noise and clamour. I have kept up with all the newest developments with Hima Jomo and presented at Esxence 2024 Metamorphosis was an upcoming release of Khullu, which means the wool that is around the belly and neck of the yak, a high-quality wool that is also reported to have antimicrobial properties, once again a superbly crafted, delicate expression of the Himalayas. The entire collection of Hima Jomo has integrity and is highly unique, a refreshing glimpse of an ancient culture.
So impressed and enamoured am I with Atelier Matieri’s collection that I purchased without hesitation the latest release, Cedre Figalia. A beautifully verdant fig, bright and crisp wafts on a heated breeze, a warmth that radiates from the Alaskan Cedar. Perfect for the first forays into Springtime, I find it a joy to wear in these returning days of renewal, a perfume that whispers of all that summer will bring. Veronique Le Bihan and I first met in the brand’s early days and I am delighted to see them grow and prosper.
Danu Seith-Fyr, Contributor
All photos copyright Danu Seith-Fyr, words are my own.
Spiritum Paris Discovery Kit courtesy of the brand
Thanks to the generosity of Jonathan Dufour from Spiritum Paris we have a Spiritum Sample Set (9 x 2.5ml) for a registered reader in the EU and USA. You must register or your entry will not count. To be eligible, please leave a comment saying what sparks your interest based on Danu’s report and where you live. Draw closes 4/8/2024
Please read Michelyn’s Esxence Metamorphosis 2024 report here, Ida’s here and Lauryn’s here
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