J’s image of Olfactive Studio Smoky Soul
Smoky Soul is the first release from a triptyque of tea perfumes composed by perfumer Marc-Antoine Corticchiato of Parfum D’Empire as part of the new Olfactive Studio Sepia Collection. It joins the stunning Shot series of extrait perfumes; the Sepia Collection takes us on a journey through the world of teas and their origins. With Smoky Soul, we are transported to the enchanting tea-growing region of China, where tradition runs deep.
Fujian by Tuul and Bruno Morandi courtesy of Olfactive Studio
The photograph by Tuul and Bruno Morandi’s chosen by Creative Director Céline Verleure, the visionary behind the brand, showcases the sprawling landscapes of Fujian, a place where tea thrives. As you immerse yourself in this rhythmic scenery, you can almost sense the gentle flow of thoughts, just like sipping a cup of tea and getting lost in its fragrant steam.
Tuul and Bruno Morandi courtesy of the Olfactive Studio
Olfactive Studio Smoky Soul is a conceptually beautiful way to start this new trio from the Sepia range; it captures the essence of a sepia photograph, with its beautifully composed shades and tones. The warm, dark notes blend seamlessly with the golden yellow hues of osmanthus and the smoky vetiver, creating a fragrance that is both comforting and intriguing. Despite being an extrait, Smoky Soul is delicately balanced, never overwhelming the senses. It envelops you in a soft, contemplative aura, reminiscent of old photographs. The bottle and presentation further enhance the creative experience, evoking memories of vintage cameras and the attention to detail is evident in every aspect. From the leather case to the font choices, it’s clear that every element has been carefully considered, I’m getting flash backs to old 35mm cameras I’ve worked with, Ilford film and also the feel of vintage photography magazines all reflecting the passion and dedication of the brand.
Céline Verleure the creator of Olfactive Studio and perfumer Marc-Antoine Corticchiato courtesy of the Olfactive Studio.
Olfactive Studio Smoky Soul begins with a luscious, fruity osmanthus dancing with a smoky Javanese vetiver, creating a gentle cloud of exquisite fragrant smoke. The apricot and peach notes of the osmanthus are showcased beautifully, accompanied by a delicate floral touch that contrasts elegantly with the deeper, smokier Javanese vetiver. This vetiver possesses a darker smoky, almost baked clay-like quality compared to its Haitian counterpart, which exudes a rooty warmth and earthiness in a different manner. The osmanthus in Olfactive Studio Smoky Soul reminds me of vintage Jean Patou “1000,” which I happen to own a couple of vintage bottles of, its my favourite from them. Jean Patou had their own osmanthus fields specifically for “1000,” and this fragrance captures the depth and complexity of that osmanthus beautifully. It’s a delight to experience this richness once again in a contemporary scent. The composition is further enhanced by the addition of black pepper, which infuses the fragrance with a gentle warmth and ember-like glow, coaxing out even more facets from the osmanthus and vetiver. Soft green notes and a warm sage-like essence give the impression of leaves unfurling in a cup, enveloped in a smoky, floral sweetness. The smokiness here is reminiscent of the dense, fragrant smoke that wafts from a freshly brewed cup of tea, enveloping your skin and transporting you to a state of deep contemplation. The fruity sweetness of the osmanthus provides a beautiful contrast to the darker, smoky whispers of the tea, while the leather facet of the osmanthus adds a touch of dark suede to the composition. Imagine petals that have toughened over time, still smooth and silky but with a hint of edginess. Smoky Soul is a perfume that embodies the passage of time, with delicate nuances and shades.
Olfactive Studio Smoky Soul courtesy of the Olfactive Studio
In the middle stage of Smoky Soul’s development, a dominant note of black, a smoky tea emerges, adding an intriguing depth to the composition. Here there are moments when I experience a comforting sense of familiarity. Smoky Soul exudes a vintage or classic vibe that feels cosy and inviting. I can’t quite place it, but I feel secure. The blend of vetiver and fruity florals, accompanied by the warmth of tea, I think provides this comforting sensation. The subtle touch of rose adds a touch of elegance, with a hint of honey that lightens the smoky tea. The ingenious use of seaweed introduces a unique saltiness, reminiscent of facet of Lapsang Souchong tea. As the smoke dissipates, intricate green notes emerge, like you’re reaching the bottom of your teacup and revealing the tealeaves. This salty green essence beautifully complements the deeper, earthy tones of Indonesian patchouli, which exudes a raw, soil-like quality along with its leafy greens. I adore how this combination harmonises with the soft leather osmanthus, creating a stunning blend, especially when delicately softened by rose and jasmine. The smoky essence of vetiver lingers on the skin, like a distant memory, as the tea has been savoured and the cup remains filled with nothing but leaves. Smoky Soul is a beautiful fragrance that revolves around the essence of black tea, infused with the delicate sweetness of osmanthus flowers. It effortlessly captures the nostalgic charm of sepia photography, emanating an aura of refined elegance. I’m very excited to experience the remaining two scents in the triptyque , as this is truly a captivating way to begin the olfactory journey.
Notes: Osmanthus Absolute from China, Indian Black Pepper, Black Tea from Sri Lanka, Turkish Rose Essence, Jasmine Absolute from India, Vetiver from Java, Patchouli from Indonesia, Seaweed Absolute from France.
Disclaimer: Merci beaucoup to Celine Verleure for the Olfactive Studio Smoky Soul bottle provided for this review. Thoughts and nose my own.
Senior Contributor – J Wearescentient, artist and olfactive explorer.
Olfactive Studio Smoky Soul courtesy of the Olfactive Studio
Thanks to Olfactive Studio, we have a 100 ml bottle of Olfactive Studio Smoky Soul for one registered reader in the USA. To be eligible, please leave a comment on what sparks your interest about J’s review, your favorite Olfactive Studio perfume and that you live in the USA. Draw closes 2/15/2023/2024.
Smoky Soul was selected by Michelyn and Ermano for Best in Scents Top 10 2023
Read Celine Verleure’s Creative Directors in Article Here
Meet Celine Verleure at Esxence 2024 March 6-9
Olfactive Studio Smoky Soul is available on Jovoy Paris and Olfactive Studio websites.
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