Image of MATIÈRE PREMIERE Vanilla Powder by Karl
MATIÈRE PREMIERE’s perfumer and founder Aurelien Guichard recently debuted a work of olfactory art and ingenuity— Vanilla Powder. Guichard embarked on a journey to capture the essence of vanilla in a fragrance that was created using both centuries old harvesting techniques and the latest in fragrance technology.
“Vanilla is a raw material I’ve always wanted to include in the MATIÈRE PREMIERE collection. This fragrance is a refined vanilla: its dark richness is met with an explosion of modern white powders.”©-Aurelien Guichard for ÇaFleureBon
Image of Aurelien Guichard courtesy of MATIÈRE PREMIERE in his Atelier Mai 2023 Photos © Alexis Jacquin @lestudioalma_9755_web
Here is his signature overdose of a raw material, Madagascar’s finest Vanilla Absolute, which infuses Vanilla Powder with depth, embodying the raw beauty of its origin. MATIÈRE PREMIERE Vanilla Powder is not sweet nor linear and is unlike any vanilla perfume I have smelt. The star of this olfactory ensemble is the Vanilla absolute sourced directly from local farmers located in the northeastern region of Madagascar. These precious vanilla beans, embarked on a nine-month journey of growth and were meticulously pollinated by hand. Following this intricate process, a six to eight-month drying period ensues, allowing the beans to mature to their full aromatic complexity.
Image of Madagascar vanilla pods and powder photo by Michelyn using images from MATIÈRE PREMIERE catalogue
There is a balance struck between the richness of vanilla and the dryness of Palo Santo as Guichard weaves a scented narrative of contrasts and complexity. To complement the exceptional vanilla absolute Guichard sought inspiration from the lush forests of Ecuador. Here, he discovered the natural Palo Santo oil which “has this very particular, dry white wood scent, almost cypress like. It brings structure and verticality to the warm, supple aspect of the Vanilla Absolute Madagascar.”
Aurelien Guichard in his Atelier/ Mai 2023 Photos © Alexis Jacquin @lestudioalma_9755_web
Guichard masterfully introduces white powders into the composition, elevating it to an entirely new level.
“Perfumers use mostly liquid ingredients. But we have also access to amazing raw materials in the form of natural resins, powders or crystals. MATIÈRE PREMIERE Vanilla Powder is unique because I have used over 40% of powder ingredients in my formula. I have selected only modern powders, to build a signature sillage of freshness and vibration. Woody powders such as oakmoss and ambrocenide, ambery powders like Ambroxan and powders derived from Vanilla – ethylvaniline and vaniline.”
Guichard’s formulation is a symphony, with each note harmonising to perfection. The Madagascar Vanilla is present throughout. There is a gentle caress of coconut, adding a creamy and exotic facet to the blend. Ambroxan, with its woody and ambery undertones underscores the Palo Santo. Together, these natural and synthetic elements create a contemporary perfume that is unparalleled in its modernity and allure. Aurelien Guichard’s MATIÈRE PREMIERE Vanilla Powder is a testament to the artistry and passion of a master perfumer. With a commitment to sourcing the finest ingredients from around the world and a vision to create a fragrance that pushes the boundaries of convention, Guichard has created a fragrance is much more than another vanilla, it is a testament to both innovation and classic fine fragrance.
Notes: Vanilla Absolut Madagascar Palo Santo Oil Ecuador, Coconut, Ambroxan.
–Karl Topham Senior Editor and U.K. Ambassador, with contributions from Michelyn Camen, Editor-in-Chief.
Disclaimer: 100ml bottle of Vanilla Powder sent to Karl and Michelyn for review purposes, opinions are their own.
Official Image of MATIÈRE PREMIERE Vanilla Powder
Thanks to MATIERE PREMIERE we have a 100 ml bottle of Vanilla Powder for one registered reader USA, UK and EU. You must register. To be eligible, please leave a quality comment about what sparked your interest in Karl’s review of MATIÈRE PREMIERE Vanilla Powder and what you learned from Aurelien Guichard’s quotes for ÇaFleureBon and where you live. Do you have a favorite MATIERE PREMIERE? Draw closes 10/12/23.
Please read Michelyn’s exclusive interview with Aurelien Guichard here. If you would like your comment to count twice, pull a quote that resonated with you from his quotes and leave it in your comment.
Matière Premiere which was awarded The U.K. Fragrance Foundation Perfume Extraordinaire for Radical Rose in 2021 and Crystal Saffron was a Fragrance Foundation Finalist for “Indie Fragrance of The Year” 2023.
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