Best New Perfumes at Pitti Fragranze 2023


Pitti Fragranze 2023 Statzione Leopolda – Florence – Danu Seith-Fyr

How to explain that certain feeling, that ambiance that fills the Leopolda Station every September in beautiful Florence, that calls together a multitude of perfume people from all over the globe on common ground. It never fails to astonish me that here is a family, people whose air is the same, whose passions emanate from the same source and who surprise us every year with new creations, yet remain faithful to the Pitti Fragranze atmosphere.  Here there is relative calm, oh yes believe me, business is being done but there remains every year this sense of time and conviviality time to meet, time to catchup, time to get to know one another and the perfumes, its smaller and more familial atmosphere leads to more meaningful interaction with the brands and creates relationship, so very important. It was a little difficult through with lots of brands being represented by their distributors, the few I know personally are always welcoming, unknown ones not so much.  For the press this makes it a challenge to get to know newer brands. I always prefer the more personal interaction.

Pitti Fragranze 2023, Halls – Danu Seith-Fyr©

Pitti Fragranze 2023 was larger than last year, with more exhibitors and events. The theme of Perception Reinvented offered a lot along the lines of AI and technology, however this is not something that attracts me as a writer so I will leave that side of things to other members of the team. Alongside this exploration of all the faces of our modern technology was a certain dawning amongst well established brands that perhaps a turning of the tide perhaps in favour of what one of my colleagues called ‘Considered Content’. As a writer amongst writers and video editors who do just that, it was a breath of fresh air in an oversaturated arena.

Perception Reinvented was relevant however as my perceptions of certain components were certainly pushed out beyond my perceived edges and I really look for that in a perfume. There appeared to be a shift in those brands I visited towards deep, rich gourmand perfumes with coffee, chocolate and roasted nuts in various guises, facets playful and sensual, truly good enough to eat, delicious to say the least and tapestries of finely wrought incenses along with extraordinary luminescence and an Oud akin to a deity of many faces.  A fine and overdue resurgence of Violet in leaf and flower, something associated with an era past yet here presented with modern faces that surprised and delighted, alongside the increasing appearance of delicate and ethereal florals like Linden and Mimosa, some personal favorites.

Pitti Fragranze 2023 best perfumes

 CaFleureBon Best of Show at Pitti Fragranze 2023

It is a very difficult thing indeed to narrow down a few of the many beautiful and unique perfumes I experienced at Pitti Fragranze 2023. Certainly, there were less of the  pop-up variety of new brands than were seen at Esxence and those that were present in Florence seemed to have taken the slower road to developing their collections, I appreciate this stance.  Following are my Best of Show from Pitti Fragranze 2023

Olivier Durbano, White Stone Prophecy, HH Alex Postiglione and Michele Marin, Oracle- Extra Virgo, Thomas de Monaco.

Olivier Durbano and Danu, White Stone Prophecy, HH Alex Postiglione and Michele Marin, Oracle from Extra Virgo, Thomas de Monaco at Pitti Fragranze 2023 Danu Seith-Fyr©

White Stone Prophecy 19.1 Olivier Durbano– never fails to hold up a torch to the highest aspirations of humanity within his luminous collection that has spanned 19 years so far.  His latest addition to the Poems and Stones of his art is White Stone Prophesy.  It is a culmination, an ending and a beginning, Frankincense robed in herbal psalms, resins and the tender mystery of violets. As always veils are drawn back and spending time with his creations is always revealing, written within is his very nature and profound belief.

Oracle Extra Virgo – Alex Postiglione and Michele Marin- a pure, provocative conjuring that sends the bright pertinence of intention skywards, for magic is just that, focused intention. What whispers rise in the smoke of ages, so much to be told.  Here through the vapours of resins, prepared by inhalation of illuminating citrus we can travel far and beyond, eyes clarified, lines between profane and sacred blurred. A profound depth of experience awaits in Oracle’s beckoning glance. Spending time with Alex Postiglione and Letizia his love and muse was a joy and a meeting of like minds. Long may it continue.

Fuego Futuro and Sol Salgado – Thomas de Monaco – A pleasure to revisit these two new releases along with a new version of the highly acclaimed Raw Gold. Sol Salgado is a romp in summers embrace, linden and mimosa are the stars here, a floral, delightful mess as in armfuls of gathered blooms, tangled with sea drenched salted hair, dried under the setting sun.  Fuego Futuro is altogether different it carries the heated day into the velvet blue dusk, the scent of heated herbal lays, the nights exhalation of resinous trees, warm and inviting it settles on skin like a fine cashmere gathered around that beach firepit, the night above woven with stars.

Paul-Anton Esterhazy, Estoras, Kajal III and IV, Kajal Masa, Chloe from Jorum Studio, Jorum studio Pony Boy

Paul-Anton Esterhazy, Estoras, Kajal III and IV, Kajal Masa, Chloe from Jorum Studio, Jorum Studio Pony Boy at Pitti Fragranze 2023 Danu Seith-Fyr©

Port of Alexandria and Shadows of Giza – Estoras – Paul-Anton Esterhazy and Zsolt Zolyomi. Here is another perfume house of great elegance and authenticity. I was already impressed with meeting them and their first release last year, Chasing the Horizon.  A brand with heritage, the lineage is fascinating and a very timeless, classic approach. Both new releases are well composed captures of moments in time. Shadows of Giza is my preferred at the moment and conveys that sense of blessed relief from the heat of the day, under a relentless sun, that reprieve when a stone cast shadow is found. Its moist release of ancient stones and vegetation, a beautiful base of violet leaf, patchouli, moss and amber to recline upon and view millennia stretching out before us.

Kajal III, IV and Masa Kevin Mathys and for Masa – Marc Daniel Heimgartner. Kajal is always a place for me to stop, breathe and explore at each perfume fair.  The welcome is traditionally warm and I am never disappointed with new offerings.  Kajal III and IV are designed to appeal to both men and women and both are very beautiful in totally different ways, the new designs are modern and refined.   IV was an instant voyage of delight for me, its Davana, Rum and Date combination along with a very interesting note of Palm Flower which I must say I have never smelt, lent it a rich fabric in which to swathe oneself, the date particularly has an unctuous quality that gives you its sensation of sticky, rich Arabic delights.  Masa which means singular Diamond in Arabic, pierces with a brilliance of self-assured elegance, citrus shot through with ginger and then a watery note which is clear and sparkling with violet in the base.

Pony Boy Jorum Studio – Euan McCall. How can one become instantly besotted with a perfume, a woven enchanting, a lure of the most exquisite beauty, it is curious and shows us its beautiful face, we are captured by its combination of wild fruits and strange pairings that draw us to desire another kind of encounter and to linger a little longer. In masterly strokes, Euan has given breath to a legend, there is danger, we know it but willingly accept our submersion and joyfully enter in amongst the waters edge. Pony Boy is a ride into the unexpected and appears on my skin as a piercingly beautiful encounter, tis the way of all the Fae.

Patchouli Mania - Essential Parfums, Delizia Oscura - Calaj Perfumes, Tsovak Voskanian, Histoire d'une Rose - Voskanian, Best perfumes at Pitti Fragranze 2023

 Patchouli Mania – Essential Parfums, Delizia Oscura- Calaj Perfumes, Tsovak Voskanian, Histoire d’une Rose-Voskanian, Husen Baba- Azman Perfumes at Pitti Fragranze 2023 Danu Seith-Fyr©

Patchouli Mania – Essential Parfums – Geraldine Archambault and Fabrice Pellegrin. This new offering from Geraldine at Essential Parfums is a gourmand’s delight.  A refined patchouli invites us to feast at the table, Davana is a most welcome guest and this exceptional combination of Patchouli, Davana and Vetiver combined with a delectable trio of dark chocolate, hazelnuts and coriander evolve to give rise to a perfume that is extremely elegant, chic and darkly delicious. It wears beautifully on skin. Essential Parfums always deliver a voyage of discovery paired with affordability and sustainable practice, a model of modern perfumery.

Delizia Oscura – Calaj Perfumes – Flavius Calaj.  Disturbing in the most delectable way, this perfume is a wild addiction. It vivid and daring composition I had been warned about. Not for the faint hearted it provides anyone with a dark, dark obsession with chocolate, coffee and aromas of roasted nuts an instant, intense fix.  Mainlining is out of the question but strapping a mouillette directly under my nostrils or a venetian plague mask filled with the perfume may be the answer, to swoon in its bewitching euphoria.  Violet in the heart drives me insane in the best possible way. Delizia Oscura has a siren like quality that once imbibed we are not to be released easily. Meeting Flavius in person for the first time was also a great encounter.

Histoire d’une rose – Voskanian – Tsovak Voskanian- it was a great pleasure to meet Tsovak again and to discover his newest release. He has engaged my interest before with Soir Vert and Lonicera de Nuit. Histoire d’Une Rose, a tenderly composed tribute to his grandmother, took my breath away. As its name suggests a rose, but quite a different take, here is a tenderness verging on that kind of unconditional love, constant that gathers in the fold of a family. A rose accompanied by bright, effervescence, ageless youth in a wealth of experience. Within in the folds of this Rose held aloft by tangerine, all manner of citrus and at her side lavender, she is a formidable, enduring force.  The tenderest of embraces linger, like beautiful memories.

Azman Perfumes Risk Antonio Gardoni

 Azman perfumes Risk  Husen Baba and Antonio Gardoni was launched at Pitti Fragranze 2023

Azman Perfumes Risk– Husen Baba and Antonio Gardoni.  An outstanding discovery with my dear friend Husen Baba, a gentle human with an intimate and highly developed knowledge of Oud in all her guises. He decided to fulfil a dream, a dream to create the ultimate Oud Perfume and who else to dare to take that leap alongside him but Antonio Gardoni.  Together with such a vision they have literally created a sumptuous, innovative ode to that particular component with a number of supporting cast that elevate, sublimate, expand and draw out of the oud’s all manner of hitherto unknown facets.  Six types of Ouds are masterfully blended here, Risk takes my perceptions of Oud and throws them to the four winds and left in their wake is a beautifully conceived new impression, I am breathless at every turn. With a touch of genius Husen and Antonio have deftly transformed in an act of pure alchemy every difficult oud facet into a majestic avant-garde kaleidoscope.  Care to Risk…. Dare to.

Naso di Raza - Cha ba da, Frassai candles.

Natalia Outeda- Frassai and Danu, Naso di Raza – Cha ba da, Frassai Candles.

Frassai Candles – Divina Foresta and Fruto Prohibido– Natalia Outeda, Yann Vasnier, Roxanne Kirkpatrick.  As with all of Frassai’s collection everything Natalia does is done with an understated elegant presence.  The perfumes now complimented by two new hair perfumes (alcohol free of course) and are now joined by two beautiful candles.  I am often wary of candles as they can often smell far too heavy or artificial, here Natalia has produced two exceptional candles with perfumes that suffuse and linger in a delicate harmony with your surroundings.  Inspired by Diana, the Goddess of the forests, the hunt and the moon, Divina Foresta’s spices harmonise with woods and resins to offer us a sanctuary untainted by the day-to-day frenetic pace.  Fruto Prohibido is dedicated to the cyclic myth of Persephone and contains elements symbolic of her temptation by Hades and the subsequent voyage to the Underworld, pomegranate of course, but given deep aspects by a hypnotic narcissus, oak, leather and vanilla. Both have their place in the modern home.  It was also a pleasure to see Natalia once again at Pitti Fragranze 2023.

Moha from Sasva Perfumes, 11, 22, 33 - Spiritum Paris, Jonathan Dufour - Spiritum Paris

Brands that will merit my further attention, not only with their new releases but overall; new discoveries to watch:  Moha from Sasva Perfumes, 11, 22, 33- Spiritum Paris, Jonathan Dufour Spiritum Paris, Danu with Robin and Nico- Pernoire-Danu Seith-Fyr©

Cha ba da – Naso di Raza– Federica and Agapito Cavallin with Michele Moellhausen. Another adventure in a gourmand guise, I am always taken by Naso di Raza’s style and here in Cha ba da they have gifted me sweet, succulent memories of a fantastic Cassata Siciliana, a classic dessert from Sicily of almonds and pistachios, visions of façades of baroque proportions with a rich tapestry of florals at its centre, once again with violet, another exceptional perfume from this supremely chic Italian house. I absolutely love it.

Moha- Sasva – a new addition to this Indian house serves us coffee with a delicate weave of Indian culture, Sasva’s collection are unique and offer us insights and for me memories of my time working in India and once again to meet with Sriman and his new wife Sarina was a great pleasure, to be continued.

 11, 22 and 33 – The Master Numbers – Spiritum Paris – Jonathan Dufour and Perfumer Philippe Paparella.  Jonathan was so welcoming as was the case at Esxence, these three new additions to the Spiritum family are quite special, inspired by the master numbers in Numerology. I am excited to hear more from Jonathan nearer the release date.

Pernoire – thrilled to meet with brand owners, Nico Mannino and Robin Dunner, conversations were had, a mention of a certain Prince, certainly I shall be exploring their connection further. At first glance Amoral was my initial choice, more writing shall follow on this one.

Headspace perfume Collection, Sinan Saul - Ephemeral Dyadic, Ephermeral Dyadic, Rito Italy- at Pitti Fragranze 2023

Headspace Collection, Sinan Saul – Ephemeral Dyadic, Ephemeral Dyadic, Rito Italy – Display, Gran Gala and Collection -Danu Seith-Fyr©

Headspace Collection – created by Nicolas Chabot and Jules Dinand- I was introduced to this collection by their Distributors, Kaon Distribution – Daniela Caon and Roberto Drago. What an exciting and exceptional collection of thoroughly modern perfumery.  Utilising Headspace technology, the new extraction method which is completely fascinating and focusing on a prime ingredient then amplifying it with high quality components, the compositions are seamless and the brightness of the raw materials shine with a brilliance.  I was particularly struck by most of the herbal highlights, Genievre, Sauge, Absinthe and with Myrrhe and Santal.

Rito – Stefano Torregiani and Davide Martini – Perfumers Chris Maurice and for the new release of Gran Gala – Perfumer Miguel Matos.  I was very pleased to meet with Davide and Stefano, everything about Rito is Italian design and style, from the presentation to the beautiful bottle and most importantly to the perfume itself.  I went through the whole collection and am excited to explore further, Riserva IX has got my attention straight away as it was warm and inviting. Plenty in this beautifully crafted collection with attention to all the details at every turn.

My last mention of a new discovery is Ephemeral Dyadic, a new brand from Turkey – Creative Director and Founder is artist Sinan Saul – no perfumers known at the moment.  A very interesting collection that merits further attention. Very clean and modern presentation.

At the end of quote an exhaustive list, I trust that within there is some food for thought around the upcoming releases from these houses, interesting times as they say!

Shekor - Al - Amin Abedin, Antonio Gardoni and Sultan Pasha.

Soft launch event in Florence for new brand 2024- Shekor- Al-Amin Abedin, Antonio Gardoni and Sultan Pasha -Danu Seith-Fyr©

To finish my summary of Pitti Fragranze 2023 I simply must mention my invitation along with fellow writer for ÇaFleureBon, Lauryn Beer to the soft launch of a new brand for 2024. Delving into the heritage and landscape of Bangladesh, the brand is the combination of three immense characters and talents within Perfumery. Al-Amin Abedin, Sultan Pasha and Antonio Gardoni. The perfume house is called Shekor which means Roots. There will initially be two perfumes launched and in Florence, over an aperitif we were able to try the first one which created by Sultan under Antonio’s and Al-Amin’s direction. Monsoon was crafted and that initial introduction is very interesting, no names yet for the perfumes but watch out in early 2024 for the launch. As both Al-Amin and Sultan have roots in Bangladesh, this has been a project of great meaning for all three.

After all that and saying goodbye to Florence’s ever present beauty, I am off to Cannes for my next report…

Many thanks to all who gave me their time and continuing friendship at Pitti Fragranze, also the organisers, without which this fair would not continue.

All my opinions are my own words

Danu Seith-Fyr, Contributor (we welcome Danu back after a hiatus)

Please read Ermano’s Pitti Fragranze wrap up here

Part 3 by Deputy Editor Ida Meister and Part 4 by Lauryn Beer to follow.

Please leave a comment with what sparked your interest about Danu’s Pitti Fragranze 2023 recap because you never know….

Follow us @cafleurebonofficial @danu-sf  @ode_r_  @pittifragranze  @olivierdurbano  @extra_virgo @thomasdemonaco  @estoras_official  @kajalperfumes @jorumstudio @essential.parfums @calajperfume @voskanianparfums @azman_perfumes @frassai  @nasodiraza_parfum @sasvaparfums @pernoire.official @headspaceparfum @ritoitaly @ephemeraldyadic #shekorperfume

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